Make these slow-cooked greens with a ham hock and a dash of hot sauce.

This was how greens weresupposedto be servedalive, vigorous, and most of all, emerald green.

So you’re able to imagine my shock when I first encountered Southern-style collard greens.

Overhead view of southern collard greens in a black bowl on a wood surface.

Sally Vargas

My First Time Eating Collard Greens

It was more than 20 years ago.

I was one of the only white employees of a black-owned weekly newspaper in Madison, WI.

Army green, stewing in an olive drab pot broth, with chunks of smoked pork floating around.

Side view of a bowl of southern collard greens served with condiments.

Sally Vargas

I asked my boss, Ms. Franklin, what this was.

She almost fell over laughing.

“Those are collards, son!

Overhead view of southern collard greens in a black bowl on a wood surface.

Sally Vargas

You’ve never seen collards before?”

I hadn’t, being white, from New Jersey, and from a largely Italian-Jewish-WASP town to boot.

She said that’s where all the vitamins went after you stewed the heck out of the greens.

A large stockpot with sliced onions to show how to make collard greens.

Sally Vargas

and make it a soup.

Whatever you do, don’t throw it away.

Southern collard greens, you should know, are one of those recipes that has unlimited variations.

Ham hock and liquid added to a stockpot to show how to make collard greens.

Sally Vargas

Each region, even each cook, has his or her own twist.

This is how we had them at our company picnics, so long ago.

Or at least it’s how I remember them.

Adding greens to a stockpot for a southern collard greens recipe.

Sally Vargas

Ms. Franklin’s gone now, bless her soul.

This one’s for you, Betty!

Stack several leaves on top of each other, roll them together, and slice them into ribbons.

Pulling the meat off a ham hock for a southern collard greens recipe.

Sally Vargas

you’re free to also freeze them for 10 to 12 months.

Add the ham hock, smashed garlic, chicken stock, and water, and bring to a simmer.

Cover and cook for 1 hour.

Chopped ham on a cutting board for a southern collard greens recipe.

Sally Vargas

To serve, remove the ham hock, pull the meat off the bones, and chop.

Mix the meat back with the greens.

Taste and season with salt, if needed.

Adding the chopped ham into a stockpot to make pot liquor.

Sally Vargas

Serve with vinegar and hot sauce at the table.

Side view of a bowl of southern collard greens in a black bowl on a wood surface.

Sally Vargas